All Discussions - Tangents forum

Solar Eclipse - How should I take advantage of it?

Mgarber — Mon, 14 May 2012 23:59:46 -0400

There will be an "Annular Eclipse" in Taiwan next Monday morning at 6AM. The light that early is usually kind of fresh and interesting, but the added effect of the eclipse could make it even more so.

Does anybody have any advice for shooting the eclipse? Will it burn my camera's sensor?
Any ideas for how to capture the ambiance it will create?

http://focustaiwan.tw/ShowNews/WebNews_Detail.aspx?Type=aALL&ID=201205120022

Photixx wireless triggers

sassone — Thu, 20 Oct 2011 09:15:13 -0400

Anyone here using the Photixx Strato triggers? I saw a video on them and they seam to be a good alternative to the PWs and Radio Poppers. The price is about a third of the PWs and Radio Poppers per unit. They have a four channel set-up and you can use TTL in a pass through mode. Again looking for feedback.

Thanks sassone

Artistic Bokeh (Bokeh Effect) - Create your own bokeh shapes !

mvheyst — Mon, 14 May 2012 04:31:48 -0400

" This is a Bokeh & Art video with Samsung NX Lens. This clip was filmed in many places using various bokeh shapes include specific characters and letters. We made more than 300 different kinds of bokeh shapes, tested and chose the best shapes for each scene. "

Sweet Bokeh Video – Born This Way!
http://www.samsungimaging.net/2012/02/20/sweet-bokeh-video-born-this-way/

http://www.samsungimaging.net/2012/02/10/show-your-love-with-beautiful-bokeh/
(You can download 2 files with some shapes)

* Tips for bokeh photography

1. Use of larger aperture works best
- You will get the best result with a lens, which can use large aperture.

2. Creating bokeh in different shapes
- Place in front of your lens a piece of black paper with the shape you want carved out of it.

3. Set your camera to aperture priority

4. Better to get closer to the subject or further away the background

Nikon D70 Autofocus Malfunction

LRM — Sun, 13 May 2012 17:18:28 -0400

Hey there,

I have a Nikon D70 and noticed the auto focus acting up the other day - and, eventually, a few hours later it stopped completely. I attributed it to the fact that my battery was low. So I charged the battery AND tried a camera reset - neither of which worked. The AF mode switch is on but AF will just simply not work. Manual still works fine, and while I can use manual, most of the time I do prefer AF because my screen is so tiny and it's hard to tell if my pics turned out clear or not. I've checked this out online and seen at least two other exactly identical cases with a Nikon D70, and I believe in one of them, the person referred to an old photography site of yours. Would you have any idea how to resolve this?

-LM

Parking Lot Lighting

Rampage — Tue, 08 May 2012 08:24:20 -0400

I am a wedding photographer who has been shooting events with several direct flash units for many years. In some cases such as room lights the heads might be completely or partially bounce and in most cases the on camera is (maybe softened but) usually direct. Although I've been happy with this method but the lighting discussed in this forum is much more natural and (beautiful) and seems to embrace today's style as well as technology. It also seems simpler and in some ways less work. (Coordinating two light people and a set of room lights can be a full time job by itself and it doesn't lend itself to spontaneous PJ style. ).
My question though is how can a photographer catch an active dance floor in situations where there is little or no reflective surfaces such as an out door parking lot or a tennis court, or an airplane hanger or a stadium and in some cases a huge (I Mean Huge) ballroom? Are we talking umbrella or do we resort back to my old ways?

Regular AA batteries vs rechargeable AA batteries in speedlight

Jimmy_Justice — Sat, 12 May 2012 10:40:20 -0400

I was always hesitant to buy rechargeable batteries for my speedlight (580ex) because I already have too many battery charging responsibilities with my camera , phone, vagabond mini etc. It is so convenient to be able to put in a fresh pack before a job and then just throw them out when they are done.

I was recently complaining to a salesman at B&H that I usually dont use TTL mode because it often uses too much power and causes a longer recycle time.Sometimes it can take 7 or 8 seconds and that is way too long.

He suggested I switch to rechargeable batteries and claimed they provide a faster recycle time for my flash.

I am still a bit wary and I would like to hear some opinions on this matter before I go out and buy rechargeable batteries for my speedlight.

Is it possible that rechargeable batteries can provide a faster recycle time?

Thank You.

Photoshop CS5 Upgrade, Lightroom or both

Derekthephotographer — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 06:51:14 -0400

I just ordered Lightroom 4 but realized that I was going to have to learn a whole new workflow with LR. I currently have PS CS3 and was wondering if it would make more sense just to upgrade to CS5. I hear all about how LR is the gold standard for photo editing and digital workflow. But is it really worth adding it into the mix of my workflow or should I just stick with what I already know and do a simple PS CS upgrade?

Light stand Manfrotto 1004 or 1005 ?

JdKock — Mon, 07 May 2012 00:55:18 -0400

I have one manfrotto 1051 light stand and i want to buy an other (little bigger) one.
I saw the 1005 and 1004 are bigger. I'm going to use it for on location shooting with an ezybox 24". I don't now which one to choose. Is the manfrotto 1004 overkill for me and should i go for the 1005 ?
Can anyone give me some advise.

Beauty Dish Versus Softbox Versus Shoe mount flash

CanonJay — Wed, 09 May 2012 23:35:17 -0400

Hi folks!

I need some assistance in regards to what direction I need to go. First the scenerio then onto the answers (I hope). The past couple of years I have been doing some Team & Individual portraits for sporting leagues. The first year I used on camera flash with mixed results. Recently I have been bringing my monolights with a softbox and a portable generator. I set up tents and the lights. The problem is that this is becoming a real hassel. Wind with the tents and softboxes have been killing me! I have tons of sandbags, but still have issues. I want to simplify and I am thinking about going no tents in direct light with beauty dishes on monolights. Over power the sun if needed etc....Then all I will need is to weigh down the stands. Anyone use beauty dishes outdoors? Do you think this is a logical way to go? I was also thinking that maybe a variable ND filter may be needed. Any ideas or thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Jay

help with buisness card

Naftoli — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 15:45:50 -0400

trying to make myself a normal looking buisness card i shoot a variety of things mostly events like weddings and bar/batmitzvas i also dabble in microstock, although im not a great designer, i spent a few hours in photoshop playing with ideas, i dont even have a logo yet maybe ill use this as a logo too, this is what i have so far im pretty much decided against putting photos on the card b/c i think it can look amateurish and i dont want to put myself into a category, any advice/comments would be appreciated

Nikon d7000 autofocus issues?

clarah — Tue, 08 May 2012 14:03:14 -0400

I'm having a hard time with my d7000--I just got it off of craiglist (maybe my first mistake) but the previous owners are trying to still help me with autofocus issues. My d5000 seemed faster and more accurate... anyone else have these problems with autofocus? I really don't want to have to send it in.

which camera?

clarah — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 16:12:34 -0400

I have the Nikon d5000, 50mm f 1.4 G, 35mm f1.8, Tamron 28-75mm f 2.8, Tamron 90mm Macro f.2.8, and my kit lenses. I am shooting my first wedding in August and feel I should maybe upgrade my camera- I am thinking the d300 because I found a used one for about 900. Dream camera is the d700- and my lenses would be useable with a FF cam. Thoughts on the d300? With my budget, is the d300 a good option?

Any good alternative to Nikkor 24-70 2.8

bwspot — Tue, 09 Aug 2011 18:02:35 -0400

I am not a pro, but I always wanted to have 24-70 2.8 lens, but it is damn expensive and not sure if worth getting for my d90. Is there any good alternative to it, or it is just to good?
I found this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-28-75mm-Aspherical-Digital-Cameras/dp/B001955P8W/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1312927134&sr=1-3

but not sure what is it worth?

thx

mimicking window light from really large windows

debrawallace — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 22:59:11 -0400

Is the best way to do that with huge soft boxes? I know the question has been asked before regarding newborns, but I have scoured the internet and not found a satisfying answer. I've tried mimicking window light on newborns numerous ways and can never get the light to look right unless it is from a window. Are my softboxes too small? Photographing adults with artificial light is super easy to compared to babies. I can't seem to figure out what it is about them that makes them so different. Any answers out there? Neil, I know babies are your favorite (haha) but I was hoping you might have some incredible insight because of your expertise with lighting other subjects.

Debra

ugly bokeh

Naftoli — Mon, 07 May 2012 13:22:35 -0400

took this shot at with the 70-200vr2 at 185mm f3.2 1/400 of a sec. ISO200. on the bottom right hand corner there is an ugly "piece" of textured kinda bokeh/circle of confusion, could that be from some dust on the lens? any ideas?

Rogue FlashBenders

mvheyst — Fri, 04 May 2012 20:45:07 -0400

http://www.expoimaging.com/product-detail.php?cat_id=13&product_id=21

" Rogue FlashBenders is a system of unique shapeable light modifiers for shoe mount flash that enable unparalleled control for strobe lighting enthusiasts.

FlashBenders represent a new approach to controlling light. FlashBenders are positionable. You can bend a FlashBender into almost any position, and it will assume that shape, staying in position until you reform it. Unlike static flash diffusers and bounce reflectors, dynamic Rogue FlashBenders allow you to direct light where you want it. "

Sky Lanterns

David67 — Thu, 26 Apr 2012 17:22:33 -0400

I am shooting a wedding in June and wondered if anyone out there has ever shot sky lantern's being let off into the night sky? What would my best setting be? Thanks Peeps.

Focus Tracking with Lock-On

TwinLens — Mon, 30 Apr 2012 03:31:15 -0400

I do weddings and portraits what should I set the Focus Tracking to Off,Short,Normal or Long?

Lightroom 4 - Auto-WB?

StroNoob — Wed, 02 May 2012 11:08:05 -0400

I recently picked up LR4, and I'm trying to get comfortable with it. I've been using Photoshop since about 3.0, long before I was ever a photographer, so the develop module in LR feels familiar (if limited) but I'm sloppy pretty much everywhere else.

Anyway, I've noticed that right after importing a bunch of photos that as I scroll through them (not in grid but 1-up) the initial preview of the pics is a lot warmer and usually looks better. After a couple seconds the WB changes (and anything else?) to a much cooler temp and a flatter look. What is happening? Is there some sort of auto-WB, or does it start at a base WB and then adjust to my set WB? I'm dealing with RAW files, I haven't tried it with jpg yet to see if it persists there.

Thanks,

A question about glare and reflections in eyeglasses / angle of incidence

Mo4753 — Thu, 03 May 2012 09:03:40 -0400

Hi ,

After reading this forum , I have learned about the angle of incidence and some ways to avoid reflections in eyeglasses by bouncing a flash at a better angle.

In this photo which was taken using only natural light outdoors during the midday sun, I noticed a reflection in the glasses that I was not happy with.

Have a quick look at the photo and tell me if there is anything I can do to help avoid reflections in eyeglasses while using natural light.

Thankyou.

Canon t2i with Canon 70-200f4 IS @ 155mm f4 1/50th sec

FYI: Supplemental Flash can screw your on Camera Flash TTL metering.

Matrixphoto — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:21:44 -0400

Supplemental Flash can screw up your on Camera Flash TTL metering.

Hi Everyone I just wanted to give a out an FYI

This past week I shot a small wedding. I had a second photographer with me.
He was using a studio flash to supplement his on camera flash. Un-benonced to me he had the " Slave on " so when ever my flash would fire it would fire. The problem that occurred was that my Nikon D3s TTL metering system picked up the light from the studio flash causing my images to be underexposed no mater what FEC/ISO I was using I had my camera at 6400 ISO and +3 FEC and Images were turing out under exposed.

Once I realized I turned the Slave off my camera's TTL metering system acted normally.

He had the Studio light set for F8 at 400ISO my camera was set for F4 at 1600 ISO.

And yes I checked extif...........Flash did fire !!!!!!!

Examples

With Supplemental Flash

With Out Supplemental Flash

The moral of the story is that you Supplemental Flashes must be set to the same or lower power than your on camera flash.

Lou Recine

NEW CANON FLASH TECHNOLOGY IS NIKON NOT FAR BEHIND ??

rlemish — Wed, 02 May 2012 05:40:10 -0400

Exciting news about the new canon flash however with 6 nikon flashes 2 of ea sb600 sb800 and sb 900 i am too

committed to change.

Would you agree with this new development that Nikon can't be too far behind in developing similar technology in their

next generation of flashes ?? Do you have any inside info on this ?

I was contemplating purchasing a third PW TT5 should I hold back for now ??

When is your next book coming out ??

Is there any possibility that you will return to WPPI next winter ?

Focusing Mystery ?

Matrixphoto — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:15:29 -0400

I have a bit of a Focusing Mystery , for the first half of the day I had my camera in AF-S mode , all good camera locked on almost every time. Great !!!!!!!!!!

Then 1/2 way in the day the camera had trouble locking on anything . So I switched to continuous mode AF-C and "boom" almost every shot was in focus .

Here are a couple of example shots. So Im trying to figure out when I should be in AF-S mode and when I should be in AF-C mode or is it a matter of trial and Error ?

AF-S

AF-C

is the center AF point any more sensitive/accurate then the other cross type af points

Naftoli — Tue, 01 May 2012 14:42:52 -0400

is the center AF point any more sensitive/accurate then the other cross type af points

Hoya filters

ALM_327 — Tue, 01 May 2012 13:13:13 -0400

I have a bunch of Hoya 43mm filters I got with a lot on craigs list that have been sitting around my house for a couple years. They are all in great shape in hard cases and boxed...I just don't know if they would be worth anything to anyone or if I should juts toss them.

TTL BL problem on SB 900

ALM_327 — Tue, 01 May 2012 13:05:07 -0400

I have an SB-900 mounted on a D700. For some reason I can't get the speedlight to go into TTL-BL mode, only regular TTL mode. I'm not sure if I have some other setting on my body preventing this. Anyone else ever have this problem?

Black foamie thing (BFT) vs White foamie thing (WFT)

mvheyst — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 19:54:05 -0400

The SpinLight 360 make use of black as well as white Bounce Cards.
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2012/04/26/exploring-the-spinlight-360-new-video/ or
http://www.spinlight360.com/how/40912934

The Black Bounce Card and the White Bounce Card of the spinlight 360 can be compared with the
Black foamie thing (BFT) and White foamie thing (WFT)

What is the best uses + advantages & disadvantages of the "Black foamie thing (BFT) vs White foamie thing (WFT)" ?

Family portraits

ayalara — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 14:22:04 -0400

I will be taking family portraits next month and I am planing to use off camera flash in manual mode and the camera in manual mode. The location is at a park, time don't know yet. I like to know what settings do you recommend for the flash and camera in manual mode. Also is the Tangents has any sectons on family portraits? I am looking for websites to give me ideas for posing and for location family portraits. One more question: Is any of your books are in Kindle edition?

Alberto Ayala

Alternative for PocketWizard FlexTT5 transceiver?

mvheyst — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 21:40:46 -0400

Is there a good (lower cost) alternative for the "PocketWizard FlexTT5 transceiver", that works well?

The "FlexTT5 Transceiver Radio Slave for Nikon i-TTL Flash System " cost USD 219 at B&H. You need at least 2, therefore the cost is USD 438 + Shipping.

Do you have experience with the products from Pixel?
http://www.pixelhk.com/
http://www.pixelhk.com/Proshow.aspx?id=145

The PIXEL TR-331 Flash Wireless Trigger SET for Nikon i-TTL cost approx USD 119 on ebay.

PIXEL ROOK F508 Flash Trigger for NIKON with 2 Receiver cost USD 116 on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=pixel+rook&_sacat=0&_sop=12&_odkw=pixel+rook&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

Hkyongnuo.com sells low cost camera assecories:
http://www.hkyongnuo.com/e-detail.php?ID=282
A YongNuo RF-603 Flash Trigger set for Nikon cost USD 39 on ebay.
(I have a USD 3 YongNuo shutter release for the D300, and it works perfectly.)

Phottix Wireless Remotes
http://www.phottix.com/en/wireless-remotes.html
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Phottix+wireless+flash&_sacat=0&_odkw=Phottix+wireless&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

Exposure display on camera changes when flash is turned on/off

mvheyst — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 03:24:36 -0400

I have problems understanding exposure metering on my cameras. I don't understand why the exposure display changes when the flash is turned on/off.

You can repeat the above as follows:

1. I used a Nikon D300 & SB-700 Flash.
2. D300 on Manual exposure, ISO 400
3. Spot Metering
4. Camera on sturdy surface so it doesn't move
5. 0 the Exposure meter.
6. Flash EV on 0
7. Turn the power of the flash on and off, without moving the camera. Note how the exposure display changes.

If you don't notice changes in the exposure display, you can under-, or over-expose the camera with 1 stop. This shows the changes in the exposure display even better, when the flash is turned on / off.

The exposure display changed with -0.3 EV at time of writing this, but I noted larger changes in the past.

Changing the flash exposure on the SB-700 flash (mounted on the camera) , from -3EV to +3EV doesn't effect / change the exposure display, but turning the flash on / off changes the exposure display with -0.3EV or -0.6EV. I noted even a -1.0EV change. Turn the flash off, and the exposure meter goes back to the original position.

With the D300 +SB-600 the value changes to +0.3EV to +0.6EV.
Nikon D700 + SB-700 = -0.3EV change.

I don't understand this behavior of the flash & exposure metering.

Lens sharpness vs Sharpness of image on the printed photograph

mvheyst — Sat, 21 Apr 2012 21:26:04 -0400

When you test or evaluate the sharpness of a lens, you may choose to print a test image. It makes sense that a test image will show you how a printed picture (the final result) will look.

But, there's a snag. If you make prints from 1 file, using different labs or printers, you will find varied results. The sharpness of the printed images differ between printers, and the sharpness settings of the printing process influences it. Therefore it may appear if a lens isn't sharp, whilst the printing process may be at fault, or responsible for the softness / or the good results of another lens.

Sharpness of photograph varies between labs (and between printers):
http://neilvn.com/forum/discussion/548/sharpness-of-photograph-varies-between-labs-and-between-printers#Item_4

Sharpness of photograph varies between labs (and between printers)

mvheyst — Sat, 21 Apr 2012 13:10:58 -0400

I compared the colors of pictures printed by different labs. I used the same files. I printed the same picture at several different labs and cheap outlets. To my surprise I found an enormous difference in sharpness between the prints, even at the same lab - between different printing machines. I didn't select sharpening or any image adjustments for prints.

Therefore - you may think you don't have a sharp lens, when the printer / printing process is the problem.

Lens sharpness vs Sharpness of image on printed photograph
http://neilvn.com/forum/discussion/549/lens-sharpness-vs-sharpness-of-image-on-printed-photograph#Item_1

The sharper picture may not necessarily look the best. Some appeared over sharpened.

50mm f/1.4 lens

haans — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 02:21:26 -0400

I have bought a used 50mm f/1.4 lens as I am doing a lot of portraits and I heard that this lens is handy for close up portraits and gives a good bokeh.

I also owned the cheap and famous 50mm f/1.8 that comes with my first dslr.

To my dismay, I find that f/1.4 is little unsharp anything below < f2.0. I am on crop sensor body. This lens is a little disappointing than f/1.8 that I have as the latter gives a sharper image.

Is this a normal behaviour of this lens as a google search return results that many says this lens best perform at f2.0 or f2.8 for a full frame.

Colours on calibrated professional monitor vs colours on printed photograph

mvheyst — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:47:22 -0400

I don’t understand how the colours of a printed photograph should match with those on a calibrated monitor. So, what I am trying to understand is how to interpret the quality (or correctness) of a printed picture vs what you see on a calibrated monitor.

Say you make a print of a file with coloured square blocks? (e.g. like the blocks on a Macbeth colour checker)

How should the colours of the print compare with the colours of the picture on the monitor? Should the colours match exactly when you place the print on the monitor?

You need to assume the monitor is calibrated and the correct colour profiles are used by the Professional Lab. (Using the EIZO monitor of the Pro-lab).

BUT,
1. A monitor is backlid.
2. The colour of a photograph varies according to the light you use to view the picture.

My findings:

i) When I view the printed photograph directly against the picture on the monitor (by placing the print on the monitor), I noted there are differences in colour (sometimes significantly different). I noted some colours match better than others.

ii) When I view the print approx 1meter away from a monitor (using only available shaded sunlight), the colors seems to match well enough (without Nitpicking) - e.g. meaning the light blue on the print looks approx like the light blue on the screen.

Questions:
A) Should the colours of the print match 100% with the colours on a monitor when the picture is placed against the monitor?

B) The fact that the screen is backlit, and a photograph isn’t makes a huge difference to colours. The brightness of the light on a photograph also changes it's colours. How do you visually interpret the results from a printed picture when there is a difference in colour between the screen and the print?

Background fix with layer mask?

sasko1 — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 02:51:48 -0400

Hello.

I'd like to ask for an advice, how to do something. I borrowed image from photographer Jodie Otte (hope she won't mind, since it is just for purpose of this question).

As you can see, background here is done with I assume layer mask and than applied light color that fades after it touches the floor. What I'd like to know is how can this be done in PS? I assume that layer mask and gradient tool combined should do something. But not sure about detailed process.

Can anyone help me with this? Any online tutorial for this?

Thanks.

Shooting with two lights

Stephen — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 19:16:56 -0400

I'm referring to this article by Neil:
http://neilvn.com/tangents/2011/07/10/lighting-wedding-formals-4-large-groups/

There are two umbrellas with lights, each remotely triggered.

Would they normally be grouped together (group A) or would each light be put in a different group? In other words, if you set your exposure settings, how do the flashes know individually how much light to put out? I'm worried about too much light coming out creating cross-shadows.

Thanks.

Sales Presentation Software

Derekthephotographer — Mon, 16 Apr 2012 11:41:58 -0400

Does anyone use projection to sell their portrait or wedding images? Does anyone know of a good projection sales software BESIDES ProSelect? I'm just wondering if there's anything else out there that might not be as expensive as ProSelect but equally as effective. Right now I'm using Bridge and my 47" HDTV to project images for my clients. It's not extremely elegant because I have to use an Excel spreadsheet for taking orders and I have to pre-build image layouts and composites and making changes on the fly forces me to open Photoshop and run time-consuming actions. Not elegant at all.

Suggestions on Business Management Software (Mac)

Derekthephotographer — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:54:29 -0400

Any suggestions/recommendations for a Mac based money management software (desktop or online). I want to be able to manage my business accounts, write invoices, manage customers, etc. I know about Quickbooks online and Quicken and a few others. I'm just interested to see what others' experiences have been. Or maybe you're using something totally different with great success.
Thanks,

Upgrade

Ruby — Wed, 04 Apr 2012 16:19:27 -0400

What would you go for out of the new canon 5d 3 or the canon 1d 4? I do a lot of bird photography and want a camera that has hi ISO abilities for low light shooting. I do the odd wedding and landscape. cheers Ruby.

Interesting info on HDR (High Dynamic Range) & Monitors

mvheyst — Mon, 09 Apr 2012 22:26:33 -0400

A high dynamic range (HDR) monitor is a computer monitor capable of rendering a higher dynamic range, also called a luminance ratio, than a conventional monitor. Dynamic range is the luminance ratio between the darkest of the dark aspects of a picture displayed on a computer screen and the brightest of the bright aspects that the monitor can reproduce. Essentially, a high dynamic range monitor is able to present a higher luminance ratio between the aspects, bringing out far more of the darker details, most of which will ordinarily be overwhelmed by brightness. The high dynamic range monitor is able to compensate for the overwhelming brightness to show a vastly more realistically lighted image.

Luminance ratio is measured on a logarithmic scale designated candela/m2. A candela is the brightness produced by one candle and m2 is a square-meter. The human eye has a dynamic range, also called a luminance or brightness ratio, of approximately 1,000,000:1. A starlit scene has a photometer-captured dynamic range of 0.001 candela/m2 (cd/m2); a sunlit scene, a dynamic range of 100,000 cd/m2, which is millions of times higher. A high dynamic range monitor will capture more of the luminance for a more precise projection of this dynamic range.

High dynamic range monitors have been developed to present nearly absolute blackness and higher levels of brightness, almost 3½ times brighter than what is ordinarily achieved on a conventional monitor, which can present only about 600:1 cd/m2. A high dynamic range monitor is capable of some 200,000:1 cd/m2. Conventional monitors cannot present absolute blackness simply by virtue of the residual brightness of the screen that is inherent in its being turned on. A high dynamic range monitor will present true blackness and a less overwhelming brightness as a result of technology that modifies a liquid crystal display (LCD) cathode ray tube using a modulated series of light emitting diodes (LED). Thus a picture on a high dynamic range monitor is closer to what the eye would register at the scene of what is pictured. A high dynamic range monitor presently costs some $49,000.

Development of the high dynamic range monitor is one result of the advent of the ubiquitous digital camera. A composite technique, whereby three pictures are shot of the same scene at varying exposure levels, was developed and captures and displays a higher dynamic range in a digitalized image. The higher dynamic range image can then be displayed on a conventional monitor.

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-high-dynamic-range-monitor.htm

Which ND? filter to use in bright sunlight?

NeilHphoto — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 13:26:57 -0400

Hi,
I want to be able to shoot outdoor photoshoots with my wife. Here is the sinereo. It is a BRIGHT sunny day, with little cloud cover. I would like to use my Nikon flash/Alienbees B400 strobe with an umbrella to light her from the front. My ISO is at it's lowest (200), I want F2.8-F4, Shutter is at 1/200 sec., I want the sky to be knocked down a little. Delima, there is just way to much ambient light for this setup to work without blowing out the picture. So it seems to me a ND filter would work to lower the ambient, my question is, what number ND filter would generally be most useful in these conditions. I'm thinking ND8 (3 stops) but really not sure which is best. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you

Bokeh of Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G vs NIKKOR 85mm f/1.4G

mvheyst — Wed, 04 Apr 2012 08:03:08 -0400

The "AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.4G" lens is know as "The King of Bokeh". It has a list price of USD 1699.95.
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2195/AF-S-NIKKOR-85mm-f1.4G.html?cid=85mmfom

The newly released "AF-S NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G" has a list price of USD 499.95
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2201/AF-S-NIKKOR-85mm-f%252F1.8G.html

Info from Nikon on the 85mm f/1.8G:
" NIKKOR 85mm f/1.8G renders a beautiful, natural background blur (Bokeh) at its wider aperture settings. "

Questions:
A) How does the Bohek of the cheaper Nikon 85mm f/1.8G lens compare to the Nikon 85mm f/1.4G ?
B) Do you need to buy the more expensive Nikon 85mm f/1.4 lens - when Bohek is important ?

Any tips on shooting Product shots of Eye Glasses?

Naftoli — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 13:36:04 -0400

just got a call for a job to shoot product shots of vintage eye glasses for a website, i have done some product photography before and i have a basic understanding of angle of incidence equals angle of reflectance, i have seamless white paper (which i will use as a sweep), a few strobes, one 16 inch Softbox, and bunch of various sized umbrellas, i do not have a lightbox. should i go for a diffuse reflection in the glass with softbox? should i put a light from below the seamless to eliminate shadows? any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated thanx

Continuous light for newborns

sasko1 — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 07:45:48 -0400

hello.

I would need some advice about continuous light for newborn portraits. I've read Neil's post about spiderlite TD5 and the problem, that light is too low, so higher ISO is needed. So I ask you if there is any alternative to it?
What I'd need is continious light with enough power that I could use ISO 200-400. Also posibility to reduce the power of the lights would be great and of course, they must not be hot.

I was looking into few but have no clue or experience to choose. Maybe one of these?

http://www.profoto.com/us/products/continuous-light

I'd also like to have whole package, kit or something. So I don't have to worry about softboxes, stands...

Any idea and help would be great!

Canon 7D vs Canon 5D Mark II

dgv — Sat, 31 Mar 2012 21:10:26 -0400

Hi,
I am looking to get a new camera (photography is a passionate hobby of mine). I take pics for close friends and relatives only (their events...engagement..and i once did a trash the dress session). I currently own a Canon 40D. I dont shoot sports and so not really crazy for a fast camera. With these in mind, which of the above cameras would you recommend? High ISO performance is absolutely critical for me. I hear the Canon 7D has better focusing technology since it is a newer camera...and the Mk II is a couple years old. ISO performance..i dont know which ones better although i hear full frame cameras are generally better. I know the 5D is more exp..but i think i can swallow that difference if it makes that good of a diff.

Thanks
DGV

Default Import settings in LR for Nikon Files

BrianS — Wed, 04 Apr 2012 14:16:03 -0400

A while back I thought I saw that Neil posted his import settings in LR for his D3. I can't seem to find it though.
I'm curious as I seem to have to much red/magenta in my nikon files.
Does anyone else experience this?

Thanks,
Brian

When do you use prime lenses / Best situation to use prime lenses - during an event.

mvheyst — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:26:33 -0500

When you shoot an event (e.g. wedding) you need to work fast. Fast (f/2.8) Zoom lenses (e.g. 17-55mm) is very helpful and convenient. Prime lenses are faster (e.g. 1.4 / 1.8) and it has better optical quality (and shallower max depth of field).

I want to know when do you actually use a prime lens (e.g. the 85mm f/1.8 or 35mm f/1.8) lenses. In which situation (during an event) would you actually remove a zoom lens (and loose the convenience) in favour of the prime lens?

Therefore, I want to know when you can't be without a prime lens..

Getting monolights and speed lights to trigger simultaneously

tinaravitz — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 22:23:53 -0400

I wonder if you can help me with a problem I have. When on the road, I am trying to get my speed lights to coordinate with an Elinchrom monolight. Although I can trigger my monolight with a Skyport, that set up would not trigger my speed lights. So I thought I could get my speed lights to trigger my monolight via an optical slave on the monolight. The problem is that, although both the speed lights and the monolight appear to be flashing simultaneously, the photo is dark. I am triggering my remote speed lights via a commander function in my Nikon D90 or via a commander speed light on top of the camera. I understand that the infrared communication between my commander and slave speed lights may use imperceptible pre-flashes that might be setting off my monolight too soon. Is this my problem? If so, how do I solve it?

Also, my camera's pop up flash emits light even though the D90 commander mode has the built-in flash set at --. I can keep the pop up light from going off if groups A and B are also set at --, but then I can't get the remotes to flash. I understand from Nikon that the flash I am seeing is the pre-flash referred to above and does not contribute to the overall exposure of the image. Is that correct? Do I need a small piece of equipment to flag that pop up light? Is there any other work around if, in fact, the built-in light is not just a pre-flash?

Thanks for your help.

Ebooks

TheHowlingHaggis — Sat, 03 Mar 2012 15:27:20 -0500

Neil can you make your Off and On Flash photography books available on Amazon Ebooks?. In Australia the shipping cost for the actual books are too expensive.

Monitor: EIZO Flexscan SX2262W

lucentko — Sat, 31 Mar 2012 07:33:20 -0400

This monitor was advertise in the Shutterbug magazine (April 2012). Finally in stock at BH Photo. I called to purchase it and I got much better price then is posted on BH web site. Salesman told me that it is on sale. (Tip: Purchase by phone not on line).
The monitor is unbelievable. I am learning the settings. Not sure if I should use setting "Pictures" or "sRGB". I do not see any difference. Tho ColorMunki photo worked excellent to calibrate this monitor.
What is your experience and settings?